Matchmaker16 months ago

I'm just glad that I found this out before I had a car fire.

Fireboy5 months ago

I held the key in position 3, then hit the end of the key firmly with a screwdriver handle, and the car started.

Watergirl4 months ago

The reason(s) are: 1. You wouldn't have the convenience of a charge light to tell you that your alternator is charging.

FordOwner4 months ago

A break in the grid or swelling, a loose plate, an old battery, too much heat (or cold) and a dead battery is the result. Don't buy a lifetime battery. It will cost $100 and still fail before your life is over. Buy a moderately priced battery with 4 years of life for $35-$40 and you will be spending $10/year, not $30/year. Plan on setting your clock at 4 years and start saving for the next $40 battery.

Fionas_Boy4 months ago

[Joe Avsec] I just installed a remanufactured NAPA alternator and one of the housing srews vibrated loose after a couple of days. It vibrated to the point where it came in contact with the fins on the alternator pulley, breaking all of them off and making a terrible sound.

Fionas_Boy4 months ago

I had same key error message on my 56 plate s40, so opened the key flap with the key itself and sprayed inside the hole with wd40! Few months ago now and no further problems. Fingers crossed.

Corrie19994 months ago

Yes i had a look at a s40 2005 model today, The customer was left with no ignition and no crank but wipers interior light, main lights all worked,

Fireboy4 months ago

Checking Alternator Diodes. [Tip from Corey Glassman, Electrical, Charging and Starting System Tips and Techniques, Underhood Service, Sept 1999]

Gary19964 months ago

These were the precursor to the keyless ignitions that are found on more and more cars these days where you don't even have to put the key in, just have it in your pocket.

Pete_W4 months ago

Alternator Mounting Bushings. [Editor] Over time, the three rubber bushings securing your alternator in its engine bracket can compress, allowing the pulley to become misaligned with the crank pulley and accelerating belt noise and wear. You can replace these with OEM rubber bushings or aftermarket polyurethane, which are more robust and do not compress as easily. The latter may be had from IPD. To replace your bushings:

FordOwner4 months ago

I had the same problem this morning with my 2007 s40 2.0D. The car has 125,000 miles on the clock and up until now has been very reliable.

Matchmaker14 months ago

[Editor] For an older alternator, merely changing the brushes may not help much. You should rebuild it with new bearings and turn the commutator.

petHead4 months ago

[Testing Bosch voltage regulator on 7xx/9xx cars: How can you tell if your voltage regulator has gone bad?. What tests can you do?

Watergirl4 months ago

I am not a mechanic (obviously) so I wonder if someone knows what this error could be. Is it just oxidized connectors or is it a symptom of some bigger problem? What can I do about it?

Gary19964 months ago

If you have flickering instrument panel warning lamps, see Warning Lights Flickering: Bad Alternator Brushes for a solution.

petHead4 months ago

Slow Battery Discharge. [Inquiry:] I am having an electrical problem with my Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was good for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem here?

Matchmaker14 months ago

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Mary4 months ago

The car then started. He said that he had fixed this problem on a few Volvos and they seemed to continue working after this, but he could not guarantee anything.

Corrie19994 months ago

When the key was turned there was no sign that anything was happening, no clicks from the starter motor or audible noise from the fuel pump etc.

MechExp4 months ago

2) Get a multi-meter and measure the voltage between the battery terminals with the engine off. If it is less than 12 volts, you have a battery or charging system problem. Use jumper cables and get the car started. After you remove the jumper cables, check voltage with the car running and no lights, AC, radio playing. Should be over 12.7 volts and 14 plus volts if the idle speed is raised a little. If this is the case, your charging system is good, but your battery (or cable) is bad.

MDG Ltd4 months ago

Lock and unlock the door 5 times. See this post: http://www.harikari.com/technology/volvo-xc70-immobilizer-see-manual.html

Col Minessota4 months ago

Diagnosing Corroded or Malfunctioning Cables and Wiring Using the "Voltage Drop" Method:

Red4 months ago

Soldering Tips: Earlier Wires Soldered to Terminals. Drill out the brush wire with a 1/16" bit where it is soldered to the brush holder. Brushes are available from Volvo for less than $4.00 (probably part number 1362710 for your car- they can check). Solder in the new brushes and replace the regulator/brush assembly.

Gary19964 months ago

Perhaps the transmitter/receiver is in the steering column as the key would be in the ignition when it is trying to read it and hitting the key in the ignition caused enough vibration to jossle the transmitter/receiver. Volvo may have had a manufacturing issue on that model of a weak soldering joint or similar causing an intermittent issue to develop over time.

Mary4 months ago

If all that checks out OK, I would suggest you get a volt meter, and when the voltage reads a little low, measure at the alternator: It should be 14.4V. If it's much less, rev it up a little - does the voltage go up? If not, there is a problem. Also, with the engine running and the voltage low (i.e. when the problem happens) measure the following:

Bri19874 months ago

Tool Tips for Short Circuits. See the Special Tools section of the FAQ for suggestions on tools capable of rapidly locating shorts in wiring harnesses. [George Downs] Take a fuse, remove the element, and solder an instrument light bulb across it. With the engine off, plug it in to each circuit in turn at the fuse panel and find the one that illuminates it. That is the circuit which is grounding your battery and causing the drain.

Bri19874 months ago

Alternator Regulator/Brush Reliability. [Inquiry] Is it wise to preventatively change out a 10 yrs old voltage regulator now?

MDG Ltd4 months ago

I called the Volvo assistance and the guy they sent put the key into the ignition, turned it fully on and hit it relatively hard about ten times with the handle of a screwdriver, then he turned it to the off position and repeated the procedure.

MechExp4 months ago

To accurately test a starter, you need a test stand that can measure amp load, voltage and rpm. A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it and up to 250 amps under load (while cranking the engine). The no load amp draw will vary depending on the type of starter. If the amp draw is too high, the starter needs to be replaced. The same is true if the starter doesn't achieve the specified rpm.

Fionas_Boy4 months ago

Note: You can print these instructions out, xerox onto a plastic sheet, and mount it near your car battery for on-site reference.

MechExp4 months ago

When a starter motor fails your engine will not start. You may turn the key and attempt to crank the engine but nothing happens or maybe only a few clicks. It is important to be sure your battery is fully charged and in good condition and that the battery terminals, positive connections and ground cables are tight and corrosion-free before condemning your starter.

Red4 months ago

Checked the passenger fuse box connections all fine and came across this one of "tapping the key" whilst key in position three.

Red4 months ago

Volvo XC70 starter motor fault

If you had given that description without the screwdriver part, it would sound to me like your car is one of those that has a chip in the key where not just any key matching the physical cut will work, it has to be in combination with the car reading the chip. The goal being more security to keep someone from getting a hold of your key and making a copy of it or trying to circumvent the physical portion of the ignition.

Red4 months ago

Magical screwdriver now kept in glove box should the need arise.👍👍

Porker4 months ago

[Kevin O'Brien] Had the EXACT thing happen with my last rebuilt alternator: the screw came out, put stress on the pulley, and loosened the main nut on the alternator shaft. [Editor] This suggests you use Loctite on these screws before installation.

Corrie19994 months ago

Trawled the Internet for answers, tried the function lock and unlock the door five times nothing. Disconnected the battery overnight still nothing. Checked the relay (R13) and starter relay wires all fine.

MDG Ltd4 months ago

After a lot of tracing i found that the ignition switch to be faulty no main ignition circuit out put, when i used my back probe the car started perfect,all circuits worked,,

Pete_W4 months ago

Car batteries are designed for high-rate discharge (cranking) and a reasonable life of 5 years. Other designs optimize other types of service. Marine Deep Cycle batteries accept repeated full discharge conditions. Telcom batteries are designed to sit there for 10-20 years with charging voltage applied and ready for the very infrequent discharge when AC power fails. UPS batteries are similar but due to the competitive consumer market they will not last very long.

MDG Ltd4 months ago

I had to leave the car there and went home to check the web to see it this had happened to anybody else, and I stumbled on this site, I decided to try this remedy as I had nothing to lose, and to my surprise it worked.

Bri19874 months ago

I was on the verge of calling an auto electrician out when I stumbled upon a post that advised me to turn the key all the way to the firing up position and hold it there, then tap the key with the end of a screwdriver, on the third tap my car started. The problem is a loose connection in the starter switch.

Pete_W3 months ago
This problem has been solved

- see solution here