The crickets will make a lot of noise. You must have an area to keep them where this is not a problem.

House crickets are also farmed in Thailand for human consumption, where they have proven to be more popular than the native cricket species due to their superior taste and texture. They are most commonly eaten as a deep-fried snack [6] and are also sold as a protein powder or protein extract.[7] [8]

Heat pad (optional) - medical types available at most drug stores work well

Thus it is possible to heat the breeding colony, incubate several batches of eggs, and raise a batch of eggs, all on the same heating pad, within a small area. The rearing containers require more attention than the breeding colony, and the water dish must be kept damp with a spraying at least every two days. There is no doubt room for improvement in this stage of the described process.

Incubation of the Eggs To incubate the eggs, the original lid is placed on the nesting container and it is placed on the heat pad on top of the breeding container. In about 7-10 days it will be swarming with pinhead crickets and should then be moved to a rearing container. At this time, the nesting container in with the breeding colony can be removed and replaced with a new one.

The most effective way to get rid of crickets is to reduce areas of moisture in and around your home. Mow the lawn, weed plant beds and move woodpiles away from the structure. Provide adequate ventilation in crawl spaces, basements, etc. In addition, change outdoor lighting to less-attractive yellow bulbs or sodium vapor lamps. It is also important to seal possible points of entry for house crickets around the house, including window and door frames.

During warm weather, house crickets typically live outdoors and are especially fond of garbage dumps. They are often attracted to electric lights in larger numbers, sometimes by the thousands, and rest on vertical surfaces such as light poles and house walls. However, when cold weather approaches, they seek shelter in houses and sheds because of the moisture and warmth they provide.

In Florida, house crickets are usually found where they have recently escaped or been released - for example, on the shores where people fish.

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Clothing and carpets can become damaged when house crickets enter homes. They typically feed on the surface, leaving the area roughened from pulling the fibers loose while eating.

After 4-7 days the nesting material will be positively packed with oblate white eggs positioned vertically about 1-2" below the soil surface. The nesting dish should then be removed and incubated. 

Feeding Feeding the crickets the right diet is important for two reasons. Firstly the crickets need adequate nutrition to survive and breed. Secondly, the nutrition from the crickets will be passed on to your reptiles or amphibians and so it is important to keep them healthy. Crickets require a high-protein diet. Without, and often with, an adequate diet the crickets will prey on each other.

As in most other crickets, male house crickets make a calling song by rubbing a scraper on the inner edge of the left wing against the teeth of a file that is beneath the right wing. The calling song (689 Kb wav. file) is a series of short chirps. Each chirp consists of two or three pulses which correspond to two or three wing closures (graphs). Wing openings are silent.

Generally house crickets do no harm. However, if crickets kept for pet food or fish bait escape into your home and annoy you with their calls, you can eliminate them by setting out baits that are sold for cockroach or earwig control.

The nesting material requires constant attention. It must be checked every few days and sprayed if dry. Peat will need to be checked far more frequently than 'turf'. The nesting material can dry rapidly due to the heat pad above it. Once a batch of eggs is completely desiccated it is useless.

House crickets take two to three months to complete their life cycle at 26 to 32 °C (79 to 90 °F). They have no special overwintering stage, but can survive cold weather in and around buildings, and in dumps where heat from fermentation may sustain them. Eggs are deposited in whatever damp substrate is available. Juveniles resemble the adults except for being smaller and wingless.[2]

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The house cricket is probably native to southwestern Asia, but has been widely distributed by man. In the United States it occurs wherever it is sold, but it survives in feral populations only in the eastern United States (except peninsular Florida), and southern California. Why it fails to survive in peninsular Florida is not known.

House crickets, as well as various native ground-dwelling crickets, are easy to rear in small numbers in the home or schoolroom. Among Web-published rearing instructions is Breeding and Raising the House Cricket (for feeding captive herps).

Introduction Materials Required Basic setup Feeding Your Crickets Breeding the Crickets Incubation of Eggs Rearing Hatchlings Feeding Out Crickets To Your Herps

Permission is granted to herpetological societies, private individuals and not-for-profit organizations to freely use and distribute this information as long as credit is given to the original author.

Figure 2. An adult female house cricket, Acheta domesticus(Linnaeus), with hindwings intact. Photograph by Paul M. Choate, University of Florida.

House crickets are nocturnal or active at night and usually hide in dark warm places during the day. Outside, they feed on plants and dead or live insects, including other crickets. Indoors, house crickets can feast on fabric, eating large areas, leaving holes and are especially attracted to clothes soiled with perspiration.

Once the eggs have all hatched, the nesting dish is removed, the nesting material is discarded and the container recycled. Recycling the nesting material can cause problems with mold and small, mite-like insects infesting it.

House Cricket

6 - 500 ml ( 1 pint) plastic tubs (Nesting and food containers)

House crickets get their common name from the fact that they often enter houses where they can survive indefinitely. Interestingly, they are known for their loud chirping which is caused by rubbing their front wings together to attract females.

The house cricket, Acheta domesticus, is commonly encountered in Florida in only two contexts: bait for fish and food for pets. This is because it does not survive very well in the wild in this part of the United States. House crickets that are sold in bait and pet stores are reared in large commercial cricket factories or by local entrepreneurs.

The house cricket is typically gray or brownish in color, growing to 16–21 millimetres (0.63–0.83 in) in length. Males and females look similar, but females will have an ovipositor emerging from the rear, around 12 millimetres (0.47 in) long. The ovipositor is brown-black, and is surrounded by two appendages. On females, the cerci are also more prominent.[5]

Acheta domestica, commonly called the house cricket, is a cricket most likely native to Southwestern Asia, but has spread worldwide.[2] They are commercially bred as food for pets such as amphibians, arthropods, birds, and reptiles,[3] but can be kept as pets themselves, as has been the case in China and Japan.[4]

The house cricket is a 16 to 21 mm long, light yellowish-brown cricket, with wings that cover the abdomen. It has three dark transverse bands on the top of the head and between the eyes. All house crickets have long hind wings when they become adult, but they sometimes shed them later.

House crickets take two to three months to complete their life cycle when reared at 80 to 90°F. They have no special overwintering stage, but survive cold weather in the northern States and Canada in and around buildings and in dumps, where heat from fermentation may sustain them. Eggs are deposited in whatever damp substrate is provided - for example, sand or peat moss. Juveniles resemble the adults except for being smaller and wingless.

Crickets have a definite odor, but if the colony is well maintained and kept clean, most people do not find it offensive. A major source of odor is the cotton wool in the water dishes which can quickly collect droppings so it must be kept clean. In the method described here, the main colony is kept dry (no damp substrate) which reduces the smell considerably.

There are several things to consider before you decide to raise crickets:

2 Large Plastic storage containers - 'Rubbermaid' or similar (Breeding containers)

Figure 1. U.S. distribution of the house cricket, Acheta domesticus (Linnaeus).

Figure 3. An adult female house cricket, Acheta domesticus (Linnaeus). Forewings extended, revealing intact right hindwing. Left hindwing has been shed. Photograph by Paul M. Choate, University of Florida.

Once the crickets have reached 1/4" , about 50-75 should be returned to the breeding container. This is extremely important. The adults live for only a few weeks and if the breeding colony is not replenished regularly it will die out or contain only small crickets, unable to breed yet.

Materials Required The materials required for a basic setup are as follows:

Water dispenser - small chick waterer available at feed shops or specialty pet shops.