There should be at least a couple of perches at different height. They can be natural timber branches or made from PVC piping. This piping can be heated with a blow torch then twisted and slightly charred to give it a less clinical look and also to give better grip for the snake. As a rough rule of thumb, the perch should be approximately as thick as the body of the snake.

This species is sympatric with M. spilota and the two often compete in the same ecological niche.

Room heater – If you have a dedicated snake room, one option is to heat the entire room with an oil filled heater. Many keepers that do this still have individual heaters in their cages and use the room heater to maintain a temperature a few degrees below what they want in the cages then the cage heater brings it up the last few degrees. This still allows a temperature gradient across the cage and decreases the need for full power in the cage that can cause it to rapidly dry out.

They are found in Indonesia (Misool, Salawati, Aru Islands, Schouten Islands, most of Western New Guinea), Papua New Guinea (including nearby islands from sea level to 1,800 m elevation, Normanby Island and the d'Entrecasteaux Islands) and Australia (Queensland along the east coast of the Cape York Peninsula). The type locality given is "Aroe-eilanden" (Aru Islands, Indonesia).[2]

Artificial plants can be used as decoration to give more security to the snake as well as making it more visually appealing. They can be tied to the perches using cable ties or glued with a hot glue stick.

Many Chondro Pythons are not observed drinking from a bowl; instead they are seen drinking from water droplets when misting the cage or from water dripping systems. Most individuals will happily drink from a bowl which is regularly changed, although I suggest with emaciated individuals not observed taking on water, that a drip system is put in place.

We do not recommend keeping more than one hatchling per tub.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Green Tree Python’s enclosure is to use a Ceramic Heater. The WhitePython™ Ultra Slim Ceramic Heaters are the ideal choice as it gives off ample heat but equally doesn’t take up too much space in your terrarium. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a terrarium you will need a form of lighting as well. To regulate the temperature accurately you should use a suitable thermostat.

A thermostat is essential to maintain the desired temperature. There are three main types, on/off, pulse proportional and dimming.

Captive-bred green tree pythons are becoming increasingly available as more people have success breeding them. Many websites and forums dedicated to the species provide quality captive-bred specimens. It is best to find reputable breeders who can help you with selecting the right snake and to help answer your questions.

How much and how often to feed your snake seems to be one of the big worries for newcomers to the hobby and most will tend to overdo it. Snakes have a very slow metabolism and in captivity, being fed on a regular basis, they can spend most of their time sitting around getting fat.

A large water bowl will help keep up humidity. Glass, ceramic and stainless steel are preferable but smooth plastic is also suitable. Try not to position the water bowl directly under the perch to avoid the snake defecating in it.

House green tree pythons in cages providing easy viewing so you can really enjoy their beauty. Many front-opening plastic and glass enclosures can be outfitted to accommodate the needs of these arboreal snakes. You may need to cover a portion of the screen top to help maintain the proper humidity level.

Along with humidity, heating is the most important aspect of successfully keeping green tree pythons. Overheat them and they can dehydrate, become ill and possibly die. Under-heat them and they may go off their food and you will almost certainly end up with respiratory problems. Heaters should always be fitted to one end of the cage to allow the snake to regulate its temperature by moving to the warm or cool side as desired.

Both juvenile and adult green tree pythons may benefit from the injection of water into the food item as it can help to keep the snake hydrated. With juveniles you may start with as little as 0.25 ml and progress up to 5 ml or more for an adult. Defrosting the food in warm water is another way to keep up the fluids. Depending on how much you drain it, the fur of a 70 gram rat can retain 4 or 5 mls of water.

Some individuals are compatible, others less so. It is not recommended to keep juveniles together because of their feeding responses to fast movement and that can result in injury or worse – cannibalism.

Another method to ensure the snake is hydrated is to feed them water injected food. Even defrosting the food item in water so that it’s fed wet rather than dry can help. This is discussed in more detail in the section on feeding.

As the reptile industry has progressed, keeping this snake has become easier and easier. The old tales regarding the extreme difficulties keeping this snake alive have been thrown out the window, and with enough time, effort and money spent, this species is easy and incredibly exciting to keep. In this care article I will explain exactly how this is possible.

Hatchling green tree pythons usually measure between 8 and 10 inches long. Adults average between 4 and 6 feet, with males on the lower end of this scale and females on the upper end. Males are typically more slender than females as well.

Two adult males should never be housed together as they almost certainly will engage in antagonistic behaviour towards each other. Bites from adult GTPs can inflict deep lacerations, skin tears and lot of stress.

These stunning Green tree pythons are Aru locality, Our babies are all feeding really well and as with all our other snakes come with full feeding and shedding records.These snakes though are not for the beginner.

Yearlings can usually be kept together without any problem but they need to be accommodated in a larger enclosure and caution must be taken during feeding time to avoid both of them latching onto the same food item.

This is one of the most important parts to keeping this species, and one which many are confused about. When keeping any snake, I always research the native country to which that snake comes from, and then the habitat in which it decides to live. With this in mind, it is possible to recreate the snake’s environment and successfully enjoy keeping and perhaps breeding your reptile.

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Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a terrarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures.

Green Tree Python

The caging you choose for your snake can have a big influence on its health and wellbeing so it's important to get it right. It doesn’t have to be expensive but it needs to be functional and easy to maintain. Large heavily decorated cages may look fantastic but you will need to be prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning it as the warm humid conditions preferred by green tree pythons will quickly result in health problems if you don’t.

Having artificial light in a terrarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

Green tree pythons prefer a daytime temperature of around 29 – 30°C. There should always be a gradient in the cage and the hot spot can be around 31°C under the heater and several degrees cooler at the other end of the cage. Night temperatures are best kept at around 26°C unless they are being cooled for breeding when it should be dropped to around 20°C.

These snakes are often bred and kept in captivity, although they are usually considered an advanced species due to their specific care requirements; once these are met, they usually thrive in captivity.[4][5]

Housing a reproductive pair together may or may not yield good results. Some will mate readily when the time and conditions are right, others, usually the males lose their libido when kept with the same female all year round. If there are no signs of interest from the resident male during expected mating time, replace him with a new male. It almost always results in immediate mating. See our breeding page for more information.

Green tree pythons do not require full-spectrum lighting to metabolize calcium, but a quality full-spectrum lamp brings out all the vibrant colors in your pet. Because the day length in their natural habitat is nearly the same year round, you can provide 12 hours of light each day.

Juveniles are usually kept at a constant temperature of 30°C without the night time drop for the first year of their life.

Green Tree Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Juveniles can be shy, so it’s best to start them off in smaller enclosures measuring 1 foot long, 1 foot wide and 1 foot tall. Adult green tree pythons make full use of the larger sizes, such as 2-feet-long-by-2-feet-wide-by-2-feet-tall enclosures or 3-feet-long-by-2-feet-wide-by-2-feet-tall enclosures.

As Chondro Pythons are arboreal, I do not feel much of an importance on how the snake should react to a substrate. Rather, how the substrate reacts with the enclosure is more important. Newspaper is cheap, easily disposable, soaks in moisture and will also dry out easily. This is for me the easiest and best substrate for Green Tree Pythons. Aspen, bark chips and other wood chips can also be used, but be sure that no mould is allowed to grow and that regular cleaning takes place.

Green Tree Pythons require a very slight thermal gradient within the vivarium, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 75-78ºF. The ambient air temperature should be around 84-86ºF. During the night, a slight decrease in temperature by a couple of degrees is acceptable but not necessary.

Green tree pythons are definitely one of the reptile hobby’s rising stars. As their common name suggests, these snakes spend a great deal of time in trees. But they are not always green. They come in a wide array of colors found in both wild and captive-bred designer forms. Only one recessive morph, the albino, currently exists.

Heat mats – Used the same way as cable by placing it under one end of a cage but usually just one or two cages per mat. They are available in a large range of sizes and wattage.

Juvenile green tree pythons are typically yellow, red or dark brown-black. As they mature, their color changes to the bright green many adults display. Some individuals keep their bright-yellow juvenile colors, and some turn straight to blue. Each color is unique and stunning in its own way. Watching the color change is one of the most exciting things about owning these beautiful snakes.

Primarily arboreal, these snakes have a particular way of resting in the branches of trees; they loop a coil or two over the branches in a saddle position and place their head in the middle.[3] This trait is shared with the emerald tree boa, Corallus caninus, of South America. This habit, along with their appearance, has caused people to confuse the two species when seen outside their natural habitat.[citation needed]