Hi,
First, many thanks for sharing this information on web!
1. Do you happen to know at what motorway speed the passive DPF regeneration begins? I have an Euro 5 forester diesel and observe a 10-15 min long active regenerations at approx. 600-800 km intervals. I also observe short (5 min long) active regenerations after a long motorway drives at approx 120km/h in 6th gear, which looks as if the speed or RPM or engine load is too low for passive regen to start.
2. Is there any possibility to install a DPF soot saturation indicator on dashboard, possibly through an Android phone? Which OBDII interface and software would you suggest? Is it possible to trigger active regeneration?

The question I have is as follows, Where can I obtain info on removing/blanking the DPF and reprogramming the DPF logic?

I just installed a set of the XB fog lights on my Subaru Outback. The additional road lighting effect is barely noticeable over my existing HID low beams. IMHO these LED fogs are not any better than the OEM halogen fogs. I did adjust the beam to get the best possible light angle. This LED fog light replacement has only has a very narrow slit where the light is emitted.
Last year, I installed a set of Morimoto HID fog lights in my other vehicle and I would easily say that my HID upgrade was far superior for light output for fogs. My HID fogs almost double my usable light output.
I don't really care if the lights have a "cool" look, I drive mostly on country roads, my comments are to help guide the person looking to improve their ability to see the road better in fog, drain or snow. I chose these based on some of the good reviews perhaps people were commenting on how bright these lights are to look at, not so much how they light up the road.

Hello, i want to remove Dpf from my impreza , and seeing reply from mathias, i was wondering how to do that ? just replace the mid pipe? And what are the problems with ecu and regeneration?
Thanks.

Thanks to the awesome information on this site and the forester site – I actually managed to piece together what the problem was with the car (using Torque Pro).

SHELL / HEAT SINK: Powder Coated Cast Aluminum

Thanks for the – very reassuring reply. I managed to purloin the readout the Subaru dealer provided and the figures indicated prior to the second regen (forced – flashing icon and fault code P2463) ODR 7%, soot at 139% and ash at 0%. The car has done 110k and prior to the split inlet piping had never had any issues at all (lots of highway distances). A week later and before replacing the inlet pipes the car performed about 6 complete active regens (solid icon) in 6 days before the DPF icon started flashing again. This time, at the Subaru dealer their concern was the 0% ash. From my reading it seems that one needs to do a lot of kilometres before the ash levels even get to 10%. It was this reading that the Subaru dealer claimed had been zeroed by the previous mechanic and so the DPF filter needed to be replaced to allow a reset of the baseline. When I discovered this I was a little dubious about the claims and felt that since the car had been performing so well until the inlet pipes split that perhaps 0% ash might not have been too far from the truth. Unfortunately the previous receipt with regen didn’t record the levels. I will follow up on your suggestion of getting an OBD connector. I will also see if prior mechanic kept a record of values somewhere else.

Figured i would just be like everyone else in this thread and add noise (and no solution). Same issue is happening to my 2015 Subaru Outback and have been told three times now i need to make sure that gas cap is tight.

Word on the Street: Don't just take our word for it, check out these Install & Review videos that previous customers have put together! Everybody loves a good YouTube demo, so check it out HERE!, HERE!, HERE!, and HERE!

Hello everybody and thanks to SubDiesel for his nice homepage & Readiness to help.
Here is my feed-back on the DPF fitted on my OB 2012 Euro5 after…..360.000km. (!)
Car is still running great and feels like it can achieve a lot more! Just this silly DPF which keeps telling me annoying stories from ± 200.000km.
DP Sensor check, T sensors check , Turbo check, ND injectors check…everything seemed to be still operating fine.
I guess as suggested by Subdiesel that the silicone membrane inside the DPF must be now really deteriorated since the engine keeps facing oil dilution (No soot accumulation, always oil dilution as OBD). I now manually reset the counter with the button’s routine to avoid the engine to fall into limp mode and the usual flashing light on the dashboard.
The one we hate and we all know too well as EE20 engine users.
I will go for the solution & modification listed by David (Huge thanks to him for having shared his solution with us) since the swap to a new DPF will be now close to the value of the car 😉

There’s no difference between MT and AT models as far as engine oil change & oil dilution reset is concerned. Oil dilution is ECU internal, AFAIK not shared with other control units etc. Just try the procedure, see if it matches Engine Oil Change. Btw., can you email me a scan or pic of the manual page describing the reset procedure?

Four days after the actual loose gas cap episode on 12/25 - no reoccurrence. Maybe it does have something to do with leaky/loose gas caps - That keeps coming up. If it happens again, I'll replace the gas cap assembly and see what happens. (BTW: My step-son's Honda had a warning light for a loose gas cap - but it was just a singular "Check Engine" light, not what we are seeing.)

If engine is turned off while active regen is in progress, it must abort the action. No harm done this way except there’s probably some soot left, next regen will occur sooner and regen counter is not being incremented. Likewise, distance since last regeneration parameter is not being reset to zero. Next time the engine is running, ECU gets to analyse DPF state and decides as usual, AFAIK not really taking any previous regen into account.

If you need our help, email us at helpdesk@whatcar.com with a details of your problem and a head and shoulders photograph of you.

did you reset the oil dilution on the ecu. if not the light wont go off.

FORESTER: 2014-2018 (req. mods to bracket)

But I do think that I am still having something not perfect as active regeneration ( without soot warning light) is fired very often ( around every 200 km), but at least, the dpf regeneration succeeds to clean the DPF and I continue to use normally the car.

Hi! I have a 2017 Forester with the new Euro6 diesel engine. My regeneration distances are about 350km in winter with a lot of bumper to bumper traffic on the highway, but no city driving. In summer it fluctuates a lot, 150/200…
The white smoke when you accelerate from a stop usually happens when the car is doing an active regeneration. I think that this behavior is normal during an active regeneration.

A spokesman for Subaru said: ‘Mr Uren has offered his gratitude for our intervention and assistance. We wish him trouble-free motoring in his Outback.’

good morning Mr Coetzer. sorry to hear you were forced to sell your subaru. the Audi pushing the revs up on a down hill is not related to the regeneration. it has to do with the transmission. regeneration on a subaru would make the engine knock sound louder and while driving you would notice the boost is low when accelerating

I have done small research related to DPF and periods on mine EURO5. The result is, that the distance between ends of two subsequent regenerations can be 80 km or higher (see picture on this forum http://goo.gl/tak66T). The distance depends on many factors like: driving style, urban/suburban/highway and in my case mainly on ambient temperature. Lower the temperature – longer distance between regenerations. I found that there is no relation to oil (OMV/Motul) or fuel maker (OMV/Shell/Agip/…).

I installed these on my 2008 STi, I had to do some cutting and thread some screws through the heat sinks to fix them to the original fog light housings. It's a three hour job but the results are incredible.
My only complain is that the adjustment screw is a bit hard to turn. It illuminates quite well. Very satisfied with the light output even though they seem to illuminate a little high, so maybe I will adjust some more.

Forester XT 2011, last month DPF came on figured it was due to short distance drives red lining everywhere, took it to dealer and naturally en route on the duel carriage way it switched off so the dealership looked at me like wtf, ran a forced regen and gave it a full service, apart from my window not going down automatically all was well.

Has happened twice on my 2013 Outback. First time it was the gas cap. The dealer identified that as the problem and also told me that it would take a few days of driving to clear all the lights which it did. Tonight, it happened again. Checked the gas cap and it looked ok but tightened it just in case. Drove the car for a few minutes and the ABS light and AT Oil lights quickly went off. Brake, cruise control and check engine still on but the car drives and brakes fine. Hope the others go off soon, it is worrisome to see lights and flashing on the dash. This is my 2nd Subara and was planning on a 3rd but finding this forum and knowing that they have ignored the problem for years makes me think twice about another one.

LED OPTICS: Kuria Fog-Projection Lens

I Have a Subaru Outback Diesel euro 5 year 2015 and at 50km I begun to have the DPF lights on ,etc went to the dealer 7 times for the same reason, the 6th time, dealer did an upgrade of the software and Wash the DPF ,the 7th time they finally change the DPF for a new one. as I know it has to be change every 40-70 km depends on your luck.

Hello friends! My 2010 Legacy diesel, euro5 makes active regens (no ligt signal) every 100km urban and every 250 km highway. This seems too often to me. I am right? If yes, what can cause such problem, consider I use only original oil and good quality diesel? Car is 155.000 km. right now. Huge thanks for every opinion in advance!

OUTBACK: 2010-2012

SWAG: Morimoto Decal

These are quality fog lights! The optics allow for a wide angle beam of pure white brightness. These fog lights project useable light where it's pointed instead of a scattered glare that you get with led bulbs installed in an oem halogen fog housing.

Install is a direct fitment like oem. The supplied screws did not fit, but the use of oem screws work just fine. Wiring is straight forward, no splicing needed.

Overall, a great purchase!

I’ve received your email, will get back to you this weekend.

Soon after, the Subaru suddenly started to behave even more strangely. The DPF light reappeared and the engine management, ABS and parking brake warning lights started flashing.

Hi subdiesel, we have had a problematic 2010 Subaru Forester S-3 (EE20Z Engine). Came in September 2016 with blocked DPF, we also noted that the plenum chamber, inlet manifolds & EGR cooler had excessive carbon/soot build up. We specialize in cleaning manifolds, intercoolers etc, so we removed & chemically cleaned all components. We also reversed flushed the DPF to zero soot saturation & full flow through DPF. Initially the car drove for approximately 2000 k/lm before the DPF light came back on. Again soot saturation was very high so we did a forced regeneration, oil & filter change & oil dilution reset. About 1500 k/lm the vehicle came back with same issues. Now after looking at this & having also replaced the DPF with an aftermarket new DPF & fitted a new differential pressure sensor the problem is getting worse by the minute. My son is our diagnostic technician & has looked at all avenues including oscilloscope patterns for injectors etc. Yesterday we completed another forced regeneration but this time blocked off the hoses to the pressure sensor as per directive from Subaru Australia. The regeneration completed & got the DPF back to zero soot saturation. I drove the vehicle last night home which is 36 k/lm away. Initially the power on tack off was brilliant. Most of the trip home was on express way at 110 k/lm. When I came off the express way I noticed heavy white/grey smoke coming out of the exhaust every time I stopped & then took off from traffic lights etc. My son came home & hooked up the scan tool after the vehicle had been sitting for about 30 minutes & found no irregularities. Same thing happened again this morning when I drove the vehicle to work. There was no smoke what so ever when I started the engine cold, nor when I drove through local roads stop/starting. No smoke that I could see on the express way all the way in. But heavy smoke again the moment I got off the express way, stopped at traffic lights & then took off again, so much so that all traffic behind be backed off because of the smoke. We work on many common rail diesels with great success but this one is certainly testing us. Any information or advise would be greatly appreciated.

This Fix is a long term corrective solution to DPF problematic issues.

Subaru Lights Problem Solved

FOG LIGHTS: 2x Type S Morimoto XB LED

Can’t provide a tutorial but check out page Extended OBD-II. Check out some links and search keywords from there, you should be able to find some guidance and ready-to-use config files for Torque Pro app on various Subaru forums.
As has been successful in several cases, long term data logging will provide hints what’s wrong. I doubt it’s just driving style. Personally, I’ve had many partial =cancelled regenerations due to short distance driving, never got a problem, not even soot warning once. Highest estimated oil dilution was about 6 %.

Do you think it is normal that :
– the Soot ratio is going from less than 85 % ( since the DPF inidcator was not on) to 164 % in 500 km ?
– the Nb of regeneration is so large for a small period ?

Have played with carbon fibre cloth and a blowtorch. It certainly ‘evaporates’ when heated to orange. If I had a soobie diesel I would also investigate heat wrapping the exhaust to preserve exhaust temp up to the DPF. My two cents worth, given I’m looking at buying a diesel soobie. MK

Sorry, too little information to make an educated guess.
How many miles did you continue to drive after the DPF light came on? 192% soot is a lot…
Any readout of DTCs and ECU parameters?
Euro 5 model, I guess? Latest software?

Well-Built: Their durable polycarbonate lens will resist the test of time, keeping the Subaru projector fog lights looking new for many years to come. The powder-coated cast aluminum housing is light-weight and much stronger than comparable plastic alternatives. Doubling as the heat-sink for the LED's, the housings completely protect the internals from moisture and road debris. We've sold many thousands of these fog lights and to date, have only seen one or two develop a problem...no joke!